Dear Old Stockholm

The past ten days we have been on the great cruise of the Baltic capitols. Our stops have included: Berlin (Warnemunde), Stockholm, Helsinki, St. Petersburg, Tallinn, and Copenhagen. Every one of these ports has so much to offer that it can be daunting. However, bit by bit and step by step I make my must see and do lists and go about checking things off. Then I come back to ship excited to share stories via my blog and I look at my computer and am lost at the thought of, “Where do I start?” Then just like I conquer the cities I take my first step and enjoy the journey. Let me begin with the exquisite capitol city of Sweden, Stockholm.

Stockholm is a city where even the crows are gorgeous. Walking through this city one gets the sense of how everything contains beauty and all that is left is to let it show. Throughout the streets I would come across photo shoots with gorgeous models sticking a pose with various backdrops enhancing their lines and a photographer would going around his/her subject. These photo shoots just seemed to be an everyday thing for Stockholm. Shops would beckon the beautiful passerby to enter with an enticing window display and working to capture the beauty of the storefronts architecture and ornament with their wares. One store, that sold baskets and floral accessories of some sort, had a bicycle out front that they tastefully filled its basket with flowers. The bike was set against the store giving a sense that someone had just pedaled up and went into the store for the simple reason that the store was a place in which to arrive.

As I further explored Stockholm I found myself in awe at what appeared to be a crow, but this was Swedish crow and therefore more beautiful. I am sure it is some other species then the regular black crow, but the behaviors and mannerisms were exactly like those of the crows in the States. Theses “crows” have a blue hue to their wing feathers and necks of a fluffy grayish down. They are extraordinarily clean. I remember a conversation I once had about how you can judge a city’s cleanliness by the condition of their pigeons. Well the pigeons of Stockholm are gorgeous, clean, and not pestilent. One other bird I have seen much of in the Stockholm is the Swan. White and majestic they float in the canals and lakes, head held high so as to see everything or maybe just because they know this action makes them more beautiful. During the cruise approach through the gorgeous archipelago, I saw numerous trumpeter swans with feathers out reached and captured numerous pictures.

Stockholm’s old town is on the island of Gamla Stan. The old town is home to the royal palace, Nobel Peace Prize Museum, Stockholm Cathedral, Tessin Palace, numerous churches and many other historic and cultural sites. . Crossing a small bridge to the Island of Riddar Holmen there is the House of Nobility, an awesome view of Lake Malmo, and a view of City hall where the Noble banquet is held. With such a varied history and peaceful people a stroll through Old Town and Riddar Holmen one can truly get a true feeling nobility that is so prevalent in Stockholm. The slender cobble stone streets tailored for the pedestrian invite tourist, traveler, and bohemian alike to explore and discover the very essence of the serene Stockholm. The blend big commerce, striking history, and a curious culture one can easily slip into a feeling of belonging and create a want to return. Dear sweet Stockholm I look forward to meeting you again.

Outstanding Olden

Sometimes it is the places you least that make the biggest impressions. Olden is one of those places. I went to this town twice and each time I thought it would be another quaint, charming, and beautiful Norwegian town. With a population of only 800, our ship was the biggest thing to be seen for miles. My books of Norway tell little of this town other then that it is a jumping off point to see the Jostedal Glacier and its various fingers such as the Bricksdal Glacier. However this town has stole the marker of quite possibly being possibly my favorite port stop in Norway.

I have never seen such vivid colors in such a serene and peaceful setting. Nestled in a valley the town only has a block or two and a main street. There are not many stores or restaurants. The main industry in the town apart from the tourist industry has campgrounds dotting the valley and river shores. There are two churches in the town, both built with wood. As it is a small Norwegian town, these are small Norwegian churches. However, the feel inside is quite peaceful and humble. A far cry from the Cathedrals of Rome, Florence, or even Seattle, these two churches feel like a meeting place to get together as one and become more then the individual. The town of Olden is humble by nature and a walk through it really enables one to capture that sense. From the small conversation with a farm owner, to a small town grocery purchase Olden epitomizes the understated beauty of Norway.

On the previous visit here, I had the opportunity to take a magnificent boat ride on Lake Olden. Lake Olden is glacial lake that stretches throughout the valley and is dotted by farms and campgrounds. The color of the water is fabulous turquoisesish, greenish, bluish color that I have never seen before. It is very still and reflective. Reflecting the mountain backdrop as if it knows that reflection demonstrates beyond adjective the symbiotic nature of the two and that their coexistence is meant only to be enjoyed. Fellow boat trippers stood or sat on the bow just amazed at each waterfall, house, and element that surrounded us. We truly were surrounded because once I felt that I was looking at the most beautiful sight I would turn around and be struck by another. The sound of the engine was the only sound beside the gasps at this glorious beauty around us. After getting off the boat we all just sorta looked around taking photo after photo knowing that we had just been bestowed and experience that we would never forget.

This most recent visit I had the opportunity to go to Brickdal Glacier, and arm of the mammoth Jostedal Ice Plateau that spreads across the Nordfjord district for 783 sq. miles and can be over 1,300 feet thick. To get to the Bricksdal Glacier I hiked an easy mile that was quite gorgeous in and of itself. The hike took me past a thundering waterfall that sprayed the trail with a delightfully refreshing mist. As I got further up the hill and look back into the mist the sun and water treated me with a rainbow. Further along the trail the river of glacial runoff stormed past me begging for the attention of my camera. Then upon arrival at the glacier I was struck by the wide array of colors contained therein. The greens, blues, whites, browns, and purples were strikingly beautiful and almost made me forget about the throngs of tourists all around. At one point the glacier calved in a sort of avalanche creating an excited buzz and flurry of camera snaps. I ran to waters edge to touch a piece of glacier for myself. It can be quite a striking moment to touch ice that is over 6000 years old.

As I enjoyed this pristine environment aware that my days in Norway were coming to an end I was reminded of a line from Ferris Bueller’s Day Off, “Life moves pretty fast, if you don’t stop and look around you may miss something.” So true. I have been away about five weeks now and time has flown. But when I stop and look around to take in the beauty that surrounds me, envelopes me, and drives me life becomes timeless.

Last Year, Summer Was on a Tuesday

My second visit to the northernmost village in the world left a far better impression then the first. I should note that last time it took a great deal of time to find a way to get off ship due to safety protocols, but none and the weather was not amiable to much exploration by foot. However, today was the hottest day of the year thus far for the village of Honningsvag. I took full advantage of the summer day going on a shore excursion to two small fishing villages, a Christmas house, and then hiked/climbed up a mountain of the fjord. Afterwards, I treated myself to a treat at Artico Ice bar and finished the day out with a fine Norwegian beer. According to the local tour guide, days such as the previous visit were the norm and the sunny weather we had was not. In fact she said, “Last year, summer was on a Tuesday.”

The first village we visited was Svarsvag. It is a village of about 100 inhabitants. It has the northernmost campground in the world, a Christmas House shop, and souvenir shop with a tank of King crabs from the Barents sea. At the crab tank, the owner’s kids would hold the huge crabs up for us to take picture of and as one boy, who was maybe 3 or 4 years old, bravely held a crab I got to see how big these water insects are as it was as big as he was. He then would set it down and play with it as if it were his pet dog or cat. At the Christmas house we were treated with some delicious Norwegian cake and grog that was an absolutely delightful treat. I am sure on a cold day the grog would have warmed anyone.

The Artic surroundings of the area were stark and treeless. Lakes were spattered about creating a picture for the imagination of reindeer catching a drink. Unfortunately, this unlucky traveler did not see a single one of the area’s 6000 reindeer. Honingsvag is actually on the island of Magerøy and as our tour bus drove us between the villages we would see sweeping cliffs dramatically raising out of the sea and numerous small islands enhanced the beautiful view. One island was privately owned and the owner had built a summer vacation cabin and I could easily imagine taking an opportunity to escape to this remote point of Norway and crossing the singular footbridge to the tiny island and enjoying the ultimate peace quite here.

Soon we found ourselves in the quaint village of Aarn with a population of 70. Once again a fishing village, the town was set between two gorgeous harbors with water so clear and pristine you felt as if pollution did not exist. There were boats anchored out as well as moored at the docks. The only shop in town was an art gallery with stunning works that captured surreal light of the midnight sun that we‘ve been experiencing as well as the aurora borealis of the winter. The neighbor cat would come visit the gallery to enjoy the many free pets of the tourists as well as a bunch from me. I sat at waters edge and just closed my eyes. I meditated while taking in the air and listen to all the sounds around. Birds calling out and waves lapping. I was instantly at peace.

Back at the pier I went in for lunch and met up with a band mate. We decided to head out and see if we could find the brewery to sample the local brew. Upon leaving the ship, we both looked up the to the fjords mountainous edge and said, “Let’s go there!” and off we went. Deceiving this hike was. After a short while the hike became a climb over and up rocks and boulders. There was no trail, but we knew where were going…up. As we ascended we were stunned at the view and felt we could be satisfied, but knew we were not quite to the top. We had numerous false peaks teasing us along the way. At one point we saw a small pole and thought that must be it. Upon arrival to this small pole we quickly knew that in fact we were not yet at the summit. However, there was a metal box with a log in it to sign and so we did. Then after some debate we carried on to the top or summit of the fjord where a much bigger pole awaited us and a sweeping 360° view awaited us. Though we were 500 miles south of the actual North Pole we deemed the pole the Northern Pole as it is the northernmost pole we will see. We took some pictures enjoyed some moments looking at the gorgeous land and seascape, then began the perilous decent down.

After arriving at the bottom we now felt we truly deserved a drink and set off looking for the brewery, but the Artico Ice Bar beckoned us in from the street. This is an ice bar, meaning it is a bar with an interior made completely of ice: a bar of ice, seating of ice, walls of ice, glasses of ice, and tables of ice. It was brilliant to find ourselves here on such a beautiful day after a wonderful hike, able to sit in the warm winter clothing we were provided, sipping some sort of fruit drink in a bar made completely of ice. Then the power went out and the day was even better for the memory and laughter of the notion this is were my day would take me. Not wanting to get back on board, but having left the ice bar we headed to a pub just outside the ship, we sat and enjoyed a Mack beer, good beer out of Tromso.

All in all the day was a great mixture of good times that made the frustrating work waiting for us on our day off the second we got back to ship all the worthwhile. My second day above the 71° latitude was genuinely a great day to be so high.

Gorgeous Geiranger Fjord

Geiranger Fjord is once again one of those places on this great earth that is just so gorgeous no words can describe. I woke up this morning after a night in the crew bar and knew that outside was going to be beautiful. From everything I have read or heard of the Geiranger Fjord, even in foul weather it is a sight. Fortunately, there was no foul weather anywhere near Geiranger Fjord today. The sun was shining and not a cloud was to be seen in the sky. As I emerged onto the promenade for my first sight of the day I had to gasp for realization of all the truths I had been told. Wow!

I stood there camera in hand looking at the cliffs and mountains jutting hundreds of feet straight up from the clear bluish green water that reaches depths of nearly 1000 feet below the ship. I was struck with overwhelming calm and peace at this serene view and eager to explore. Absolute bliss in my wandering soul was felt from the promenade of the ship, and the burning desire to hit the trails and take in the surroundings could not be quelled. But first things first I had to eat a hearty breakfast to get my day started right from the outside in.

My band’s French drummer, Serge, headed to the lido to grab what would be one of the most memorable breakfasts of my life. It was not necessarily the food or the quality thereof, but the experience of this breakfast that created this memorable meal. I had huevos rancheros, Mexican potatoes, grilled asparagus, cottage cheese and fresh fruit, a croissant, and topped it off with a nice glass of Orange/Guava/ Passion Fruit juice. We headed to the open deck in the stern of the ship that looked onto the village of Geiranger. The sun beat down on us and a nice breeze cooled us. We could hear all the waterfalls in the area as the rushing waters created a serene, soothing, symphony. As we sat there and exchanged a few words about the cons of the work we’re doing, we would then stop and look around at the beauties surrounding us and the cons were easily buried by the pros. The fact that we sat there enjoying a well prepared breakfast in what is known as one of Norway’s most beautiful fjords that is recognized by UNESCO as World Natural Heritage Site was a reminder that we do what we do for moments such as this. It was only ten in the morning and the world was before us displaying her grandeur. I finished my breakfast bid Serge adieu and hopped on a tender boat for shore.

After reaching shore I knew only one thing about where I wanted to go…up. Up meant views, up meant waterfalls, up meant beauty and furthermore up meant adventure. Why not? As I started up the road I noticed my shoe choice was far less then ideal and pain began. I had the choice to stop or keep going. I made my choice and continued my ascent. With each step the view grew more varied and more intense. I had been told I could get basically on top of a waterfall so that was where I was headed. I made a stop at a church and marveled at it’s simplicity and envied the resting place of those buried in it’s yard. Afterall, he view was to die for.

Later on the road I reached a path leading to where you could step into a pool of the waterfall (it was safe) and stand on a ledge to see the fast moving water plunges off the steep cliffs. After a long moment enjoying this spectacular place I trekked on. Then, I noticed the trailhead to Vesterås and as I glanced up to the peak that was where the trail ended. I looked at my clock dismayed at how work gets in the way of my vacation, and then continued onward. I’d go as far as could given the time and the beauty of the experience made the pain from the poor footwear choice dissipated.

Along the way there were certainly excellent views. There were not too many other hikers, but there was family I took note of. I knew they were from the United States from their accent. It was a husband and wife and their teenage daughter who kept complaining and saying, “I wanna go back, there are bugs here, and there is poop too!” It shocked me that someone could complain when surrounded by such tremendous beauty about some tiny insects and dung of what could be some exciting creature or cute farm animal. As she complained further I told that Norwegian bugs are especially attracted to whine, she didn’t find it entertaining, but her parents did. In any case, I had little time so I passed them up pressed on. Along the trail I crossed creeks and caught sips of the best glacial water in the world from small waterfalls. I was making great time on the very steep assent. Soon I was shocked to find myself at the top! I made it with enough time to snap some photos take it all in and run back down the 4km I had just hiked up. The hike was through a farm so to my surprise on the way back I heard a cow bells. Then I noticed sheep grazing in the thickets. I tried to communicate with a. “Bah, Ram, Ewe!“ but they didn’t seem to understand and just looked at me quizzically.

Soon I arrived back on board in just enough time to clean my now wounded feet (need new shoes) to sit and contemplate the wonderful marvels I had just seen. As we sailed away through the fjord passing the “Seven Sisters,” “Bridal Veil Falls,” and the “Suitor” my cheeks hurts from my smile. Today was truly magnificent and such a reminder of the wonders of this world we live in. I reiterate

North of Beautiful

The past few days we have been cruising in the Arctic Circle and visiting the ports of Tromsø and Honnigsvåg. I suppose I did not really know what to expect of the Arctic Circle. I guess I thought uninhabited snow laden and glacial ice. Well I got none of that. Upon crossing the Artic Circle there is a monument perched on one of the many islands. The monument is reminiscent of a globe and made to be seen from a distance. The surrounding area is an amazing archipelago with islands with a surprising amount of homes and civilization. The captain took time to visit a beautiful harbor so we could visit a glacier. On this particular day the sun was out and no coat was needed. The most you need was a camera with a large memory card. It was simply fantastic to see the fishing villages’ dotting the coast line and imagine life for these residents. This time of year residents have twenty-four hour sun and in the winter entire months will go by with no sun whatsoever. Sleep patterns must be erratic at best. The archipelago of islands was quite diverse. Tremendous peaks that shot directly up from the ocean with waterfalls and crystal clear water these cliffs plunged into. The sailboats only ornamented the beauty as they caught the clear breeze and sailed along the coastlines. The glacier itself stood as a reminder of earths great power. The glacial ability to carve massive land formations is truly amazing and to see one so close knowing that tomorrow it will be different was brilliant. The town of Tromsø was a great contrast to Åleshund. Mainly wooden architecture it had a very frontier feel. I visited the Polar Museum here. This museum depicts life in the Arctic region and shows an history of explorers of the region. Part of the past in the Artic region if the now restricted practice of Polar Bear and Seal hunting. This museum had exhibits that showed great detail about how hunters did their job. It is for this reason that lonely planet rates this as one of the 10 worst museums. I’d have to say that as a animal lover it was very difficult, but survival was their aim and unfortunately that was how they had done it. The museum itself was in a fantastic building from the late 1800’s. It was an old warehouse and it’s character was completely intact. As I ventured onto the connected pier there were schooners galore and a fantastic view of the mountain peaks and the intriguing Arctic Cathedral. Then my tour took us out into the wilderness. On the way we captured sights of a Sami Reindeer herd on the shore. So cute! We were headed for the wilderness Centre where they house and train sled dogs that they race around the world including the Iditarod. Over 300 huskies were anxious for attention and seemed ready to run a sled if only given the chance. I learned the roles of certain dogs on the team and how one would handle the sled. Then I was able to hold and adorable husky pup that eagerly licked my face and chewed on my pack. Once again…so cute! Unfortunately I was reminded that I am allergic. , The midnight sun was quite amazing. To stand out on deck at one in the morning and have it look as if it were noon is a surreal experience. In the distance I could see the mountain ranges of Norway and took a great many pictures. It was simply beautiful to experience a wonder of the world. Honnigsvåg is the northernmost town in the world and is the gateway to the North Cape. This fishing harbor is nestled by forests and little mountains. We had a very cold and misty day here that made exploring a little difficult. I also was required to stay near the boat so I only got to wander the town for a short while. It was enough to capture some grat images and experience life on top of the world. All in all my first journey into the Norwegian arctic Circle (I’ve bee to Alaska’s) was truly magnificent. From charming seaside towns, soaring cliffs that bounced from up from the water, happy barking huskies, majestic reindeer, sparking glacial lakes, Norway is truly north of beautiful.

Finshed with an Ale in Åleshund

Thank goodness for the panorama option of my camera, otherwise sharing my first experience of Norway in Åleshund would be pictorially impossible. Like the grand canyon, African Bushveld, Peruvian Andes, and so many other places a picture just cannot capture the beauty when it engulfs you in so many ways as it does here in Norway.

Åleshund is at the top of Norway’s fjord country and has the stunning backdrop of the Sunmøre Alps that traditionally is a fishing town. The town itself is a picture book Art Nouveau town with colorful architecture romantic facades and beautiful Nordic implements to top it all off. After getting off the ship and walking one block you are immediately struck with an, “Oh Goodness, this is so cute!” jaw drop. After stopping for some time to pick my jaw up and get it back into position I immediately had to begin pounding the pavement to start seeing the town. Walking through the streets I had to keep an active eye because of sheer quantity of beauty. Each house, each building, and each corner was worth a picture. As I crested a hill a view beyond compare was revealed of artic waters with an incredible blue color and mountain peaks shooting immediately up from the crisp waters. Thankfully a bench had been placed perfectly there for people to sit and enjoy the sights.

From town I could see Mt. Aksla and it beckoned me saying, “climb me, climb me” and so I did. 418 stairs ascend the mountain to Kniven (knife). As I climbed each resting point begged a picture. When finally arriving at the peak every extra heartbeat was worth it because the view in 360 degree was simply breathtaking. Fjords, Alps, a cute town, birds flying, and boat activity all contributed to a view that literally took my breath away. Many people were around me speaking numerous languages and while their words were not know to me I knew exactly what they said. We all agreed that this was truly a fantastic view and what an awesome opportunity to see it.

I ended my day in Åleshund sitting at a fresco dining place on the harbor drinking a fine Norwegian beer, Kaska in the company of French Canadians. We etched out every minute we could of our shore leave before returning to the ship. After getting back to the ship a fair bit loquacious from the beer I headed to the ship’s fitness center where I could workout looking out onto the view from the 11th deck, as we sailed away.