Saturday, March 30, 2013

Cooking in Hoi An

Hoi An is a quait place that is huge on charm. An international trading center in the 16th and 17th Century today it is busting with tourists and locals alike. Once Japanese, Chinese, Dutch, and Indian traders once set up emporiums and had their own quarters today it pure a town where one truly can get an honest sense of Vietnamese culture. I was able to take a Vietnamese cooking class from one of Vietnam’s top chefs and restaurateurs. We began by going to the local market where we observed locals shopping for their meats, vegetables, eggs, spices, and everything else in between. The meat would be lying out in a covered area being freshly chopped by the butcher. Heads, entrails, and all the every other body part imaginable is open to an eager buyer. As a vegetarian I was fairly repulsed by the onslaught of dead smell, but part of me also knows that every part of the animal was being used and most the animals were given far better treatment then the saran wrapped processed meats we see in the all mighty USDA regulated supermarkets. I saw eggs of all sizes and colors. Vegetables I have never seen and fruits that look outright mean with thorns and prickly leaves. Sampling the scrumptious fruits reminded me to never judge a book by its cover. We then proceeded through the gorgeous lamp lined streets of town to the restraint and cooking school where we would learn how to prepare some of the exact ingredients we saw in the markets into scrumptious items fit for a Vietnamese king and his 300 concubines. We learned the tedious process of making rice paper, of how they roast peanuts, sesame seeds, and fry up shallots. We learned how to shred into fine Juliann slice papaya. Every bite mindfully prepared to the nature to the Yin Yang or balance of texture, flavor, smell, and size. We prepared and ate a full meal of Salad Rolls, BBQ meat (tofu for me), Papaya Salad and Morning Glory. Food blissed we rolled out of school and hit the streets for some sights, sounds, smells, and shops that are now seared into my memory. Hoi An is a unique treasure trove of a variety of traditional architectures. Monuments, living quarters, and temples are all preserved and intact as if this land was untormented by the many war and colonial occupations that have left their scar in so many other places. As we entered the Confucianism temple we were immediately engulfed in plumes of smoke from the numerous incense coils, and joss sticks used for worship by followers. We were witness to people asking for blessings for the New Year or Tet as it is called in Vietnam. Statues depicted stories or stood as symbol to this fascinating religion. I was entranced by the peace. I was annoyed by the unruly American tourists calling out the injustice of the proliferation of incense and the lack of understanding they held. Walking through the streets my imagination went wild with thoughts of past, present, and future Hoi An. What was it like when these lamps were lit by no electrical means. How I longed to walk the romantic streets with loved one by my side enjoying the laid back pace and nature of this enchanting place. How long will Hoi An maintain this old world charm that makes it so beautiful. Yes Hoi An has taken a place in my heart. It’s timeless beauty, simplicity, and its raw culture fascinate me. Thank you Hoi An and maybe I will see, smell, and savor you again.

Sunday, February 3, 2013

Millennium Arrival

I began my latest travels in Sydney Australia, well actually Seattle. I had a flight from Seattle to Dallas which was rather seamless. I had fantastic service at the airport and no issues with my large carry-on of two trombones. In Dallas I enjoyed some Texas wine before boarding my long flight to Brisbane Australia. The plane to Brissi (as locals call it) was relatively empty. I lucked out and had the whole row to myself. I could barely contain myself! So I didn’t. I stretched out across the three seats watched some movies slept and enjoyed the fine airplane cuisine provided. It was a quick 17.5 hours and then we arrived in Brisbane. There I had to get off the plane go through a security check where they confiscated the water given to me on my last flight and then reboarded the same plane and went to the same seat. The joys of airport security. At the airport in Brisbane I met a fellow crew member, Langden, who I worked with before on another ship. We had been on the same flight! He did not have the row to himself so I tried to keep quiet about my luck. Finally after over 24 hours of travel time we arrived in Sydney. At the Sydney airport there was a super nice porter who gave us two options wait for a shuttle or walk ten minutes to our hotel. Langden and I decided to stretch our legs and walk. It was a hot day. Hard to believe I left the cold rain of an encroaching winter just 24 hours ago and was no in the balmy heat of an Australian summer. The hotel check-in was smooth and I was pleased to find I had my own room there. Not wanting to waste a day as it was not even noon time Langden and I decided to meet up and take the train into downtown. Easy as pie it was to find the station and be on our way. On arrival at Circular Quay we went our separate ways and I was off to wander about in a town I had become familiar with the previus year. I went to the Opera house excited to get some shots of this icon from down under with my new camera. The Sydney Opera House was just as marvelous as ever. More and more I try to come up with different ideas of what exactly the shape is. This time it was distinctly a living organism with gills. It practically breathed as I stood underneath it gazing up at the reflective white tiles and my reflection in the windows. I walked all around the complexes, studying each angle and curve and marveling at the architectural science behind it. The thought that the guy who thought it up had a vision with no plan and this was the result. It was an inspiration for the next years of my life. I have a grand vision of what the architecture of my soul and being will become, but the plan at this point is fluid. I know though that in the end it will be marvelous. After the Opera House I went to the Rocks area to enjoy a nice lunch and beer and just wonder about. I followed that with a walk through the park and over to Darling Harbor. It was nice to just walk around and enjoy. I had seen most the tourist stuff so it was time to just enjoy a walk. Take time to breathe before I joined the ship. Reflect on my vacation and all that happened in those months away from the ship life and to prepare for a contract free from distraction. It was feeling right. I was feeling right. I headed to the gorgeous Queen Victoria Mall and took some pictures of the opulent Christmas display. I was reminded that it was Christmas season. Even though it was in the upper 80’s and my shorts were too hot, and I being made aware by the hot sensation on my exposed skin that I was not wearing sunscreen the Christmas tree done up in lights and the plethora of shoppers and Santa and Elf figurines would not betray the fact that it was the Christmas Season. Exhausted and filled with all the Sydney joy I could manage I caught the train back to my hotel. Upon arriving I was greeted by another close ship friend, Anita, my Hungarian Shore-Ex buddy who was so kind to my family. She introduced me to several people she had been hanging out with that were joining the ship. I joined a dinner table with people from the Ukraine, Belarus, Romania, Serbia, and Turkey. We all decide to go for dinner at the hotel so we could get to bed early for our long sign-on day ahead. At the table we talked about what we did on vacation, what we hoped to see in Asia, what ships we worked on in the past, or what ship life was like for those who were greenies. I was back to my ship life and my ship family. The crazy vagabonds we all are and the sea that brings us together. The next morning came sooner then we all would have liked. As usual it was a very early meeting time for the bus to the ship. We all made it on time and were sitting on the bus headed to our new home. The many mixed feelings on the bus were tangible in hot and humid air. Some were about to be reunited with a loved one on the ship, some had just said good-bye to a loved one back home. Some left their families back home and for some the ship family was their only family. Some were about to begin tremendously back breaking work with long work days and longer work weeks. I was excited to get back to performing every night. I was excited to refocus on my trombone. I was excited for new faces and happy I already met familiar ones. I was excited that I knew people already on the ship. I was sad to be at the beginning of six months away from my family and the community and my training at Seven Star. I was heartbroken to be away from dear Mocha and Chai again. It is a strange comfort to know life carries on without you. As the bus trodded along in the rush hour sludge the radio announcer was talking about the exciting event occurring that afternoon in Sydney. Usually these announcement of events are ignored to some measure on the crew bus because we all know we will not be in town to enjoy. This event however had a twist of irony that brought a snicker of laughter to most on the bus. The big event that was going ‘to be a sight to see” was happening in Sydeny harbor when two of the largest ships to ever come in the harbor would cross paths in the harbor as my new home, The Celebrity Millennium, sailed away and the Voyager of the Seas sailed in. It was going to something to see the DJ said on the Radio. Our fame was palatable. Then as the bus turned the corner there she was, The Celebrity Millennium. The Millennium is bigger than the ship I have spent the majority of my ship time on but the same size as the Constellation. As we waited for three hours outside of the ship waiting for the clearance to board I learned I would be rooming with a dancer. This was troubling news as they have a certain reputation. I also learned that the job I had been told I would be doing whilst onboard had just been given to someone else. This was an ominous start and I had not even stepped on the gangway. I remembered quickly how futile the question, “Why?” is when you work on the ship. The answer, or non-answer is always, “It’s just the way ships work.” I made the choice right there on the gangway, well not on the gangway as we were still being held up just steps away from the gangway for 3.5 hours, to smile, accept, and let go.